If Leigh Street is little Europe, Rigoni's Bistro is little Italy. Down the lane, the Corner Bistrot has le petit francais covered, and freshman Casablabla is doing the Spanish-fusion thang nighttimes. Early Thursday, MMC trips across town to test whether Rigoni's coffee credentials out-rep their ripper breakfasts. The Order: two takeaway lattes, skim. The Price: $3.20 per cup.
The tiled toothpick between Hindley and Currie, there's something otherwordly about Leigh Street.
It turns out the unique space has unique history to match. In 1839, wealthy philanthro William Leigh donated the entire street and surrounding land to the Anglican Church, as you do. Incidentally, the generous chap was also a heavy donor of the 'Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts' - missionaryish folks overseeing the transplanting of Anglicanism into colonial soil, and then proceeding 'in the best Methods towards the Conversion of the Natives'. Used for God-knows-what, Leigh Street and adjacent buildings remained in church ownership for 150 years.
The nouveau-heritage, pedestrian-sensitive space we see now is as recent as a 1997 purchase. The new owner's reno plans aimed to maximise the street's existing character and minimise the impact of car traffic. It's curious to consider that when the switcheroo took place just over 10 years ago, Rigoni's had been operational for 16. Was their initial landlord an Anglican archbishop? Or did the first Rigoni's roots grow elsewhere? The doormat mosaic detail is certainly eras newer than brass wall plaques proffering 'traditional' menu options. A prize to the googleite slash historian who can nugget that out of netspace.
Rigoni's reeks of long-time ownership. Friend of MMC counts tiles in the cosmopolitan sunshine before we steal inside for sustenance.The Greeting: front and centre and first thing- signor has a real maître d' manner. It's heartbreaking to say we're only up for takeaway, but he takes it in stride. Is this job security speaking? Never so in hospitality, it seems. The interweb really is this blogger's Bible - MMC learns that as little as three years ago Rigoni's was in 2006 liquidation - the second cafe this week.
These first-time restaurateurs must be pretty proud. Since resuscitating Rigoni's in late 2006, they introduced the now-famous breakfasts, and steered the sunken ship to 08/09 Restaurant and Catering Association (RCA) Awards wins for Best Informal Dining. Awards aside, Restaurateur #1 tells the RCA online that his proudest achievement has been 'watching [his] daughter teach staff to make a coffee, she’s five'. Ouch! Mister barista, what do you say?
The (quintessential) barista before us has clearly been taught well. One-part arrogance and two-parts charm, a European grin lets him get away with an über-sarcastic 'have a great day, 'cause I know you will!' It doesn't hurt that the brew is presented to us pronto. The Presentation: MMC's fave natural-coloured cups, lidded. The Pour: pristine, even after lid extraction. Caramel waves lap the shore... Pleasure mmms. It's Rio Coffee #2 this week, but it's a new experience for MMC - a different blend? Either way, it's flavour sweet, full-bodied - mouthfeel smooth, tongue-warming.
Online ouch #2 is from Restaurateur #2 - and isn't restaurateur an amazing word? There really is no 'n'! - when asked about the worst part of being a restaurateur, he answers
'having to listen to whinging & whining customers who have no idea what they are talking about'. Does this include coffee bloggers? Luckily for him, excellent hospitality is the cure of most whinging.The Lesson: it feels like both generations of Rigonians have preserved an inkling of Italiano(?) arrogance. They wear it well - with white tablecloths and well-filled water glasses. It's the friendly kind - the kind that will happily serve takeaway to collars of all colours, and with gusto.
Link: Australian Institute of Architects re: Leigh St
Rio coffee #2? Last time I checked Rigoni's had been using boutique roaster 5 Senses since late last year
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