Day 9: Fix Coffee, Station Arcade (now closed?)

In on-the-run Europe, cafes are to train stations as presents are to Christmas trees. At shiny trackside patisseries, the croissant and coffee combo invites you to start your day the French way. Keen to embrace Adelaide’s own commuter culture, MMC and friend descend upon Station Arcade’s newest face – the Rainforest Alliance Certified ‘Fix Coffee’. The Order: standard skinny flat white and smaller latte, to go. The Prices: $3.70 and $3.20.



High-ceilinged inside handsome facade, descriptions of the Adelaide’s 1856 train station usually contain the word ‘historic’. Each weekday, at least 40,000 people tumble up or down its ridiculous ramp, and surely several thousand demand coffee from its providores. Which of the four-ish station cafes should a South Australian visit? Uniformed, MMC was at the mercy of marketing.

Fresh-faced between donuts and pawned electronics, it’s the ‘Fix Coffee’ fit-out that drags us from more traditional traders. Fresh in black and ubiquitous orange, the new subsidiary of Melbourne’s Grinders Coffee sports a prominent Rainforest Alliance certification. Even in complete ignorance, lining up opposite that green forest pic feels vaguely virtuous.

The Service: rainforest cool, jaguar quick. It’s takeaway all the way, and this proves vaguely awkward as we balance hillside. Our man is immediately away with friend of MMC’s order, and MMC has to interrupt to place a second. He has no time for Rainforest Alliance FAQ. Happily, a little research separates forest and trees.

First, an acronym: NGO, for Non-Governmental Organisation. The Rainforest Alliance is a US-based NGO. Its lofty aims are biodiversity and sustainability. Since the ‘80s, its projects target land-use, business practices, and consumer behaviour. A sustainable agriculture program certifies coffee farmers who meet certain social and environmental standards. Jo the Coffee Grower might have to up safety gear for his workers, and down the use of agrochemicals. Currently, UK, Aussie and NZ McCafes all use RA certified beans.
 Does this sound familiar? Digging in this Rainforest unearths comparisons with the Oxfam-controlled Fairtrade movement. Also known for coffee-with-a-conscience, the latter has a trade focus. FT guarantees certified producers at least A$3.80/kilo. Less involved in grower-buyer negotiations, RA has a farm focus. Their shtick is that better farm management will increase both quality and profit margin. Both movements have their critics, and many say their certifications are little more than a marketing ploy.

The Question: if it’s broke, can marketing Fix it? The newbie enviro-brand is hot off the press, and MMC quickly picked its slick over shabbier small-business. Presentation: lidded, in brightbrand cups. The Blend: Brazilian, promising light floral notes and a subtle nutty characteristic. The Flavour: conjures a unique, unpleasant coffee memory. Have you ever savoured the end of a takeaway with a popstick swish? The foam you move mouthwards tastes nothing like coffee. It tastes only of the popstick, palate killer. The Pour: at half-full, down the drain.

The latte word: on a dreary day of rain, a drearier one bean out of five. Ironically (or coincidentally?), our cups of Rainforest Certified coffee were nothing like coffee and everything like treated wood. Keen to get back on the flavour track, we return to an Arcade favourite for My Morning Coffee.

Link: Australian Coffee Traders Association on Fair Trade vs Rainforest Alliance